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FIRED UP!

 
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ZrodOffline
Joined: 03 Aug 2004
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Location: Mid-Tenn
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 11, 2004 11:32 am    Post subject: FIRED UP! Reply with quote

Finally. I finished soldering the ecu and chassis connections Saturday night about 10 pm. Pumped to have this tedious, mind-numbing ordeal behind me, I double checked the oil level and decided to prime the engine by turning it over. The fuel system was bone dry, since I cleaned the tank and installed a new Walbro 190ltr/hr pump. To my surprise the engine went pop, pop, pop. I thought the starter was banging the flywheel due to alignment issues, either that, or the crank was going to fall out. Then the oil pressure gauge started to go off the scale, so I shut the key of and removed the lead from the supra oil pressure sender. I resumed the priming procedure. I turned the key and got pop, pop, pop, vroom, quick shut down. Hmm, must have had some old Japanese gas left in the fuel line. I tried it one more time pop, pop, pop, vroom, and shut down. That was enough priming for Saturday night. I was pretty up about the engine firing instead of the crank falling out.

Sunday, after Church, I bought four gallons, I mean $9.00 worth of Gas! The modified filler neck made for the extra-cab swab worked good, no leaks. I filled the radiator. I disconnected the igniter so that I could get one more prime in. A couple more ten count starter runs and I connected the igniter again. With fingers and toes crossed, I turned the key; pop, pop, vroom, bla, bla, shut down. Hmm? Tried again with the same result. I could hear the fuel pump shut down when the starter was released. I knew this was going too easy. I figured it was the fuel pump relay circuit just not exactly right. So, I jump it at the test connector and could hear the pump start running. I turn the key again, vroom, bla, bla, bla, and settled in to a nice steady idle. This soon turned into very smoky and rich exhaust. I backed it out of the garage and let it idle in the driveway. I revved it a few times to see if I could get it to clear up, but no good. Now it started to idle erratically, racing up and down. So, I shut it down. I found the turbo outlet pipe had blown off. Yep, I knew that I forgot something. While I was under the fender, I also replaced the supra oil pressure sender with the 22RE sender and reconnected the gauge lead. After getting the turbo compressor hoses clamped and figuring out that coolant switch #3 was not closing and effectively controlling the electric fans. I switched the fan control lead to coolant switch #2, blue with white-stripe wire. The fans operated much better now. So fire it up one more time. I turned the key, VROOM, an instant start! The smoky rich exhaust was gone, but the idle was still erratic. The power steering was having a tough time bleeding out the air. I let it run long enough to bleed the power steering and get hot enough for the fans to operate, but it still had the erratic idle. So I shut it down, unplugged the computer and let it cool back down while I cleaned up the garage a little (code for have a beer). After about ten minutes, I plugged in the computer and started it again, but it still had the erratic idle. I took it for a test drive through the neighborhood. I could hear a little turbo whine and the bypass open during shifts, very cool. I was idling in third gear up an approximate 30 degree grade, when it shut down. I thought a little and realized the fuel pump was not running, and it shut down about the time the fans were supposed to come on. DOH! I blew the 15 amp EFI fuse with the additional fan load. Swapped it for a good one and it fired right up. I drove back to the house and pulled it into a spotless garage (aka, no more beer).

Well, I know that I have to run a dedicated fan power circuit, but what can I do about the erratic idle?

Rod
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SuperRunnerOffline
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 11, 2004 4:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you run codes, I bet you get a code 22 for temp sensor.

Make sure that the brown connector on top of the thermostat is connected properly.
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ZrodOffline
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Location: Mid-Tenn
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 12, 2004 7:13 am    Post subject: Running the Codes Reply with quote

I haven't run the codes yet, maybe tonight.

I did unplug the ISC valve, no change. Plugged it back in.

I unplugged the AFM. Slight stumble on reconnecting. Other than that no change.

I unplugged the TPS, engine speed went up and smoothed out. So I checked the circuits resistance by back probing the ecu connectors and found the resistance between IDL and E2 to be out of specification. The reading was approximately 186 Ohms, and spec was 200-2300 Ohms. I had to pull the throttle body to access the bottom set screw, and I'm going to try to adjust it and reassemble tonight.

I will also check the engine temp sensors tonight.

I also need to find the circuit opening relay controls for the fuel pump. I sure it is one of the Chassis Plug wires, but no sure which one. Its obviously not connected to the ecu yet.

Thanks for your help.

Rod
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ZrodOffline
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 26, 2004 8:39 am    Post subject: Bugs worked out... Reply with quote

I think that 98% of the bugs are gone now.

Engine is running fine with the ISC blocked off, and the ECU is controlling the fuel pump relay with the Fc connection. I reduced the maximum boost by slightly straightening the dogleg bends on the waste gate actuator arm. Maximum boost is now only 8 psi and no intercooler. I am running 87 octane and do not have pinging issues yet.

Saturday, my Dad and I installed 35x12.50x15s on the aluminum Toyota rims. It sure was good to work with him again. I'm still running the stock 4.10 gears. The 7mgte has no problems turning these tires. Second and third gear acceleration is more than satisfying at 5 psi boost. I didn't have enough road to hit max boost in 4th, but the engine has no problems lugging down to idle speeds in 4th, no bucking. Under a load, boost begins very low in the rpm range thanks to the 3" exhaust system and no intercooler. My tach is not working, but I am estimating positive boost occurs as low as 1200 rpm. I feel confident that my low maximum boost is achieved before 2000 rpm. It is a very smooth engine. Only 40 miles on the swap so far, and I like it!

Rod
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SuperRunnerOffline
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 27, 2004 9:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

so was I right about the temp sensor and code 22?
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 27, 2004 8:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

man I'm jealous, wish I was at 98%, congradulations.
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ZrodOffline
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 29, 2004 1:20 pm    Post subject: Skipped running the codes... Reply with quote

Rob, during the TPS adjustment, I found the ISC stuck wide open. I just plugged the ISC air line from the accordian hose. The idle dropped down just right. I realize the idle speed adjustment will be manually operated via my right foot, but I'm o.k. with that fact. I suspect that if I ever do run the codes that I will get an ISC error.

The engine light only came on once during this trouble shooting process, and still does not come on during start up. I beleive this may be a bad connection at the gauge cluster. I will have to check it during the future tach modification.

Its the last few bugs that are the toughest.
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SuperRunnerOffline
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 29, 2004 2:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The problem is not your ISC valve. I have had that same problem, and put a hose clamp on my isc valve to regulate the idle. It turned out to be something else...like not power to all 4 locations on the ECU.

I guaranttee it is something else
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ZrodOffline
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 18, 2004 2:34 pm    Post subject: Yep, Reply with quote

Rob, I believe you are right. I think that I failed to connect the IGN power to the middle connector. I haven't check it though. Everything is buttoned up, and I've been driving it. I'm much happier with the 20 mpg from this truck than the 12.5 mpg from my '88 full size Bronco.

Rod
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